When the chance came up to join a Roman archaeological dig, it gave us the perfect excuse to return to Carlisle for a third time. Our first visit was a quick stop on a drive back from Scotland, just long enough to see the castle. The second was during our Hadrian’s Wall walk. We stayed two nights, but didn’t have much time for sightseeing.
Each time we came back, we discovered something new to love about the city. So is Carlisle worth visiting? Absolutely, and for longer than most people allow. In this post we cover why Carlisle is worth spending some time in, the best things to see and do, where to eat, where to stay, and some great day trips from the city.
Note: We received complimentary tickets to the Tullie Museum, so that we could share our experience with our readers. This post also contains affiliate links. Please see disclosure for more information.
Contents
A City With a Lot of History (The Short Version)
Carlisle sits right on the English side of the Scottish border, and that location shaped everything.
The Romans established Stanwix Fort (known in Latin as Uxelodunum) here, the largest fort on Hadrian’s Wall. The Hadrian’s Wall Path, the 84-mile walking route that follows the line of the Wall from coast to coast, passes along the River Eden right through Carlisle.
After the Romans left, the Vikings arrived. Then the Normans. Then centuries of brutal border warfare between England and Scotland, fought by families known as the Border Reivers, who raided, stole, and burned their way across the borderlands for generations. Bonnie Prince Charlie marched his Jacobite army through in 1745, and the city fell to his forces before the rebellion collapsed. The Jacobites were supporters of the Stuart claim to the British throne, a cause that had divided Britain for decades and would end with this final, failed rebellion.
All of that history has shaped Carlisle into a city unlike almost any other in England. It is the only place to have been added to England since the Norman Conquest, having previously been part of Scotland. It also does not appear in the Domesday Book, compiled in 1086, because at the time it was still under Scottish control.
What to Do in Carlisle
Between the castle, Tullie House, and the Cathedral alone you have quite a full day. Add the street art, Bitts Park, and some time to see the architecture and you will quickly see why we recommend at least one and a half days. Here is what to see and do.
Carlisle Castle
Carlisle Castle has been overlooking the city since the Normans built the first fortification here in 1092. Parts of the castle were built using stones taken from Hadrian’s Wall, which for centuries was treated as a convenient quarry rather than the irreplaceable monument we consider it today.
Over the centuries the castle served many purposes, but perhaps none more dramatic than its role as a prison. Among its most famous prisoners was Mary Queen of Scots, the Catholic Queen of Scotland who was forced to abdicate in 1567 and fled to England seeking refuge, only to find herself imprisoned here in 1568. Following the failed Jacobite rebellion of 1745, it also held many of Bonnie Prince Charlie’s supporters. So it’s not too far-fetched that the castle was used as the grounds of Wentworth Prison in Outlander.
There is a lot to see here, so allow at least two hours. If you love history, you could easily spend a full day exploring every corner, reading the information boards, and working your way through the museum.
Refer to the Carlisle Castle website for current admission prices and opening hours. English Heritage members and English Heritage Overseas Visitor Pass holders can visit for free. Here is our list of the top things that you must see when you visit.
The Gatehouse
You enter through the gatehouse. Before heading further in, take time to explore the upstairs rooms, where you will find a fragment of a Roman altar by one of the doorways.
The Half Moon Battery
From the gatehouse, make your way to the half moon battery. It was built on the orders of Henry VIII to strengthen the city’s defences against any potential Scottish invasion. Climb down the steep stairs and walk through where soldiers would have stood guard centuries ago.
The Wall Walk
Then head into the inner ward, where you can climb up to the wall walk. Wall walks are one of my favorite things, and this one delivers: good views over the city and the castle keep that are hard to get anywhere else.
The Keep
Next, head inside the keep. Look carefully at the walls as you go. The graffiti carved into the stone is now thought to have been made by prison guards rather than prisoners, but it is no less striking. These are marks left by real people, and some of them are surprisingly detailed.
The licking stones are another detail that stays with you. Prisoners are said to have licked moisture from dips in the stone where damp collected on the walls to survive.
Queen Mary’s Tower
You can also see the remains of Queen Mary’s Tower, where Mary Queen of Scots was held. She was allowed to walk in the grass in front of the castle during her imprisonment. Mary’s story is one of the most compelling in British history. I really enjoyed reading about her in Philippa Gregory’s novel The Other Queen.
The Military Museum
The castle is also home to the museum of the Border Regiment and the Duke of Lancaster’s Regiment, covering the military history of the region from the 1600s to the present day. It is included with castle admission. Do not skip it.
Tullie House Museum
Tullie House includes several galleries, a separate art building, and a walled garden. There is more here than most people manage in a single visit. Allow 2.5 hours as a minimum. Depending on what special exhibitions are on, you may want to allow even longer.
When we visited, the Border Galleries were being redone, which meant the Costume Gallery and Wildlife Gallery were also closed. Check the Tullie House website for current admission prices, opening hours, and the latest on what is open before you go. Association of Roman Archaeology members can visit for free.
The Roman Frontier Gallery
This is one of the best Roman collections in the north of England, and it covers far more than just Hadrian’s Wall. There is Roman history from across the empire, a video exploring different emperors, a Living Wall section examining life on modern-day frontiers, Roman pottery pieces you are actively encouraged to touch, and much more. For those walking Hadrian’s Wall, this is a must. If you can visit before your walk it will help bring the history you are about to see to life.
The Carlisle Gallery
The permanent Carlisle Gallery covers the city’s history from Roman times through to the modern day. A few things that caught our eye: the fox mascot for Carlisle United FC, a key that would have opened the Scotch Gate, one of three gates into the medieval city, and the puzzle bust of Septimius Severus, which was more challenging than it looks. It is a good way to get a feel for Carlisle before you head out to explore the city.
The Art Collection
The art collection is in a separate building from the main galleries, which makes it easy to miss if you don’t know it’s there. The focus is largely on Pre-Raphaelite works, and the staircase right when you walk in is like a piece of art in itself.
The Walled Garden
A relaxed outdoor space with lots of different plants and flowers. When we visited in late May, everything was perfectly manicured and there was a lot of color from the blooms. Time time to wander around, especially if the weather is good.
Special Exhibitions
The two special exhibitions that were on during our most recent visit were Roman-themed, which was perfect for us. The first, Uncovering Roman Carlisle, was directly connected to the archaeological dig at Carlisle Cricket Club that had brought us back to the city. The finds displayed in this exhibition were extraordinary: the Carlisle Heads discovered in 2023, one of over 200 IMP stamped tiles showing these were commissioned for an imperial project, along with pottery, bones, and much more. Seeing this definitely made us even more excited to join the dig.
The second, Gladiators in Britain, covered facts about Roman Britain and gladiators throughout the empire. There were remarkable artefacts throughout, and the Colchester Vase and the gladiator helmet were two of our favourite things in the whole exhibition.
Check the Tullie House website before you visit. The special exhibitions change regularly, and there could be something worth timing your trip around.
The Hadrian’s Wall Map
On Castle Street outside the entrance, look down at the sidewalk before or after your visit. There is an engraved map of Hadrian’s Wall set into the ground. It is easy to walk straight over without noticing. When we visited it was partially covered by scaffolding, but still nice to see.
The Cursing Stone
In the underpass that leads from Tullie House to the Castle, you will find the Cursing Stone. It is a large granite boulder engraved with a 1,069-word curse, written in 1525 by the Archbishop of Glasgow against the Border Reivers and everyone who supported them.
The stone was installed in 2001 as part of a public art project. Almost immediately, some locals began to blame it for a series of misfortunes: foot and mouth disease, flooding, the closure of a major employer. The city council debated removing it. They did not.
Whether you believe in curses or not, it is one of the more memorable things you will see in Carlisle. It is also free.
Carlisle Cathedral
Carlisle Cathedral, which like much of Carlisle was built with stone taken from Hadrian’s Wall, is smaller than you might expect. Part of the reason is the English Civil War, during which Parliamentarian forces demolished most of the nave to use the stone for repairs to the castle. The building lost over a third of its original length. A small building made all the smaller by that loss.
While it may be small it still has some impressive features to check out inside. The East Window is one of the largest medieval stained glass windows in England. Take a moment with it and then look up. You will see the 14th century star and angel ceiling, painted in deep blues and gold. I haven’t ever seen anything like it.
The gardens behind the Cathedral contain the ruins of the cloister. A peaceful spot to linger before or after your visit. The Cathedral café is also a good option for a light breakfast before a morning of sightseeing.
Entry is free. Refer to the Cathedral website for opening hours.
St Cuthbert’s Church
St Cuthbert’s is a short walk from the Cathedral and easy to combine with it. Go in and have a look. The most unusual feature of the church is the pulpit on rails, which can be rolled along a track to different positions. You will also want to check out the stained glass. One window depicts St Cuthbert being shown a Roman well.
Entry is free. When we visited the church was open daily 10am to 4pm, though information online suggested “reasonable daylight hours.” Check their website before you visit.
Architecture
Carlisle’s architecture is largely a mix of Victorian and Medieval. You will find a medieval timber-framed guildhall, one of England’s last working Victorian covered markets, a pair of Telford-designed bastions that once housed the city’s courts, and streets lined with listed buildings sitting on Roman foundations.
The Citadel
The two bastions known as The Citadel stand at the southern entrance to the city, just outside the train station. They were designed by Thomas Telford in the early 19th century and built on the foundations of a much older fortification. Until recently, the East Tower housed the civil courts and the West Tower the criminal courts.
They are now undergoing a redevelopment project for use by the University of Cumbria. When we visited you could only view the exterior, but stop and take a look. The circular towers are solid and imposing, more like a castle than a civic building, which makes sense given they were built on the foundations of a medieval fortification.
Fisher Street
Fisher Street has 15 listed buildings in a single stretch, and it is also where you will find the Old Bank restaurant. The Methodist Central Hall looks entirely Victorian from the outside but has Roman foundations underneath it. The Victorian Market Hall is also here, one of the last working covered Victorian markets in England.
Also on Fisher Street is the Guildhall, a medieval timber-framed building. It was previously a museum, though that has since closed. Take a look from the outside as you pass.
💡 Expert Tip: Near the Tourist Information Centre, look out for the red pillar box. It looks like a standard Victorian post box, but it is a replica, installed in 1989 to mark the fact that in 1853 Carlisle was the first place in mainland Britain to have a roadside pillar box.
Bitts Park
Bitts Park sits right on the edge of the city centre, alongside the River Eden. It is a lovely green space and when we visited in late May the rhododendrons were in full bloom. If you are walking the Hadrian’s Wall Path, you will pass right through the park on the route, so no separate visit needed. If you are spending time in the city, it is a good spot for a quiet wander, especially after a morning of museums.
Street Art
We didn’t expect Carlisle to have a street art scene, but we were pleasantly surprised. Here are five murals to seek out.
Belatucadros by Smug is on West Walls and is one of the most striking pieces in the city. It is a huge mural with a Roman theme, which made it an instant favourite for us. Find it at what3words location ///when.bricks.vibrates.
Aira Force by Martin Evans is named after the waterfall near Penrith. You will find it in an alleyway off Devonshire Street.
Coco Mill on Lowther Street has several interesting pieces. Look out for Joy Bound by Phoebe Mill and Forbidden Love by Tabby.
Temple of Cultures by Atha is on the side of Tullie House museum facing towards the Castle. Hard to miss once you know it is there.
Banana Bomber by Tabby is on Abbey Street and has a similar style to Banksy.
Where to Eat and Drink in Carlisle
We were pleasantly surprised by Carlisle’s food scene. Here are the places we have been to and would go back to.
David’s
The meal at David’s was one of our most memorable ever, and the reason has as much to do with timing as the food. We had just finished walking Hadrian’s Wall, 84 miles from end to end, and this was the celebration dinner. We ordered the surf and turf: local lobster and local beef. It was exactly the right meal at exactly the right moment.
This is a special occasion restaurant, but you still get great value. It would be twice the price or more in London. Book ahead.
Alexandros
A Greek restaurant in a northern English city might not sound like an obvious recommendation, but Alexandros has been here for decades and earned its reputation. We had the meze for two, which was generous, authentic, and gave us the opportunity to try lots of different dishes. Book ahead.
The Old Bank
Set in a converted bank on Fisher Street, the Old Bank has a playful atmosphere and a menu unlike anything you will find elsewhere. Dishes like Thai red curry chicken skewers, paella scotch egg, and matcha and pistachio panna cotta give you a sense of what to expect, though the menu changes frequently. Portions are generous. They also do afternoon tea. Book ahead.
Thin White Duke
A pub with high quality food at reasonable prices. A good option if you want something relaxed without sacrificing what is on the plate. Best to book.
Printyard
Printyard has a garden area decorated with street art, which makes it a great spot for a meal outside on a warm day. Even if the weather was terrible, I would recommend going because their food was that good. I am pretty picky about tacos since I grew up in Texas, and these exceeded my expectations.
💡 Expert Tip: Book everywhere. Carlisle’s best restaurants are smaller than you might expect and fill up fast, particularly on weekends.
Where to Stay in Carlisle
Crown & Mitre
The Crown & Mitre is a historic hotel right in the centre of the city. It has character, which means the occasional quirk, but the location is as central as it gets, the rooms are a good size, and the beds are comfortable. We stayed here during our trip and would book it again.
Read reviews and check price and availability for your trip here.
Langleigh House
Langleigh House is a B&B and a very different experience from the Crown & Mitre. The food was some of the best we had during the whole trip, the hosts were genuinely warm, and it felt like staying somewhere that cared about the details. A good choice if you want something more personal.
Check price and availability for your trip here.
For more accommodation options along the Hadrian’s Wall corridor, take a look at our Hadrian’s Wall Accommodation Directory. It covers B&Bs, hotels, guesthouses, and campsites across the full route.
You can also use the map below to search for availability on your dates.
Day Trips from Carlisle
Any one of these is a reason to add an extra night to your stay. Carlisle is well placed for day trips.
Hadrian’s Wall
The western end of the Hadrian’s Wall Path is Bowness-on-Solway, about 15 miles west of the city centre. One important thing to know before you go: west of Carlisle you won’t see any actual wall, but the path still takes you by interesting sites and great scenery. If you want to see the wall itself, you need to head east.
The easiest way to get there without a car is the HW1 bus, which connects Carlisle to key points along the Wall. Check current timetables before you travel.
Brougham and Brough Castle
There are two ruined castles within easy reach of Carlisle that you can visit. Both were built on the sites of Roman forts, both were visited by Edward I, and both were restored by Lady Anne Clifford in the 17th century.
Brougham Castle (pronounced BROOM) is near Penrith, around 30 minutes from Carlisle by car. It is a lesser-known English Heritage site. For part of our visit we had the ruins to ourselves. There is an admission charge, but English Heritage members and English Heritage Overseas Visitor Pass holders can visit for free. Refer to English Heritage website for Brougham Castle for details.
Brough Castle is a little further but easy to add on. Entry is free for everyone. Refer to English Heritage website for Brough Castle for details.
The Lake District
The northern edge of the Lake District National Park is around 30 minutes from Carlisle. The scenery is some of the best in England, with dramatic fells, lakes, and valleys that are perfect for walking and hiking. If you are looking for walking routes, the Lake District Pathfinder Walks guidebook from Ordnance Survey is a great place to start.
💡 Expert Tip: If you only have time for one day trip, head east along the Wall to see the best-preserved sections. Brougham Castle is the quieter, less-visited gem for a half day.
Practical Information
Getting There
Carlisle has a train station with direct services from London, Edinburgh, and across the north of England. You will get the best price by booking a specific ticket for a specific train time in advance. Use Trainline to check times and book tickets. By car, Carlisle sits on the M6.
Getting Around
Everything in this post is within easy walking distance of the train station. The city centre is compact.
How Long to Spend
One full day is possible, but you will need to make choices. One and a half days is the sweet spot: enough time to see the castle, Tullie House, the Cathedral, and eat well. At least, two days if you want to take a day trip.
Luggage Storage
If you are unable to store your luggage at your hotel or are just spending a day in Carlisle, it’s a good idea to book a place where your luggage will be kept safe while you explore the city. You can see various options here.
Travel Insurance
If you are travelling from outside the UK, travel insurance is something we always recommend. Use Travel Insurance Master to compare policies and find the right cover for your trip.
Parking
Like most cities in the UK, parking can be a challenge and also expensive. If you need to drive to Carlisle, you can search for options and book ahead with Your Parking Space. Keep in mind if you stay at the Crown & Mitre Hotel, it does include free parking subject to availablity.
RELATED: Should You Rent a Car When You Visit the UK?
So, Is Carlisle Worth Visiting?
Yes, and for longer than most people think. The three visits we have made have each been different, and each one has left us wanting to go back.
It is a city with 2,000 years of history and a genuinely good food scene. Most walkers pass through at the start or end of their Hadrian’s Wall route without giving it proper time. If you are planning your walk, build in at least one extra night. You will not regret it.
If you are planning to walk Hadrian’s Wall and want to make it a little easier and less stressful, take a look at our 7-day itineraries for both directions.
Have you been to Carlisle? I would love to hear about your experience in the comments.
-Anisa
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